Translate Blog

Tuesday, August 4, 2015

France, Part 21 - The Ghost of Bouceel and other Conversations



After the long story about Arnaud, I had a very fitful sleep.   Perhaps it was the bed which was probably built for Napoleon when he was a child, but I hardly got any sleep after the exhausting day.  It was probably the worst time I had sleeping while in France.  The next day, however, was more of an improvement. 

My family woke at the Chateau Bouceel next morning and shared a lovely breakfast cooked by Reggi himself.  The first thing he asked, of course was, “Were you visited by the ghost?”

“Ghost?”  we asked. 

“Oui,” he said.  “The Countess, it is she who this house was built for.   She is here now, has been since we opened it up to guests.  I suppose she enjoys the life and love that is once again after so many years of quiet.”

None of us had seen a ghost, though my mom had locked the door to the room, mostly because the upstairs was just a little creepy.  None of us really believed in ghosts, but Reggi shared a story that had me convinced.  Supposedly he came down one night and found a light on.  This light was on a particular switch that needed to be pushed to go in.  Reggi said he flipped the switch and was halfway up the stairs when the thing clicked itself back in and the light came on.   At the same time, a similar light was being pushed on in a neighboring house they rent out, and the guests told him the story the next morning.

Reggi related to them the story of the countess, and was surprised to find that one of the guests was actually a medium.   “It happened perhaps because she was there, for there was no way they could have known about my own relation with the light at the same time of night.”  He said with a smile.

There were more stories, including the aforementioned one about General Armond.  Reggi imparted bits of the man’s life, and how after championing American democracy he had returned to a monarchy in crisis.  Though a war hero, he was a noble and immediately beset by the mobs of Robespierre and chased.  Gravely injured during his ride, the man was taken to a local house of a friend he knew.   There, he learned of the death of Louis XVI, and this man who had fought for our independence so valiantly simply could not continue to live.  He died before the terror that was to follow.



I’d sat and listened for quite a while, and now something of my own curiosity stirred in my head.  Sitting there beneath the portraits of his ancestors and Marie Antoinette, and given all the history he’d related, I had to ask.  “What is the French perception of their revolution now?   At the time, I know, they thought they were championing democracy but all they got was darker depravity and terror.   Do they still believe it is the great thing to this day?’

Reggi considered my question.  Foremost in my mind was the haunted feeling I’d had at Versailles staring at the paintings, the story about the plan for a giant guillotine where the Eiffel is, and my own study of the history of the Revolution.   At length he related his own feeling.  “The French kings were moderate ones, and Louis the XVI wanted change for his people’s good.  He was resisted by the very forces that put him to death however.  He knew and feared for what would happen without a monarchy, for he knew the danger of nearby Prussia.   The land was under French control, and sure enough after the fall of the regime, those lands were shattered by their own infighting.   After the revolution, Napolean reunited those lands as one, and only made things worse, for after his own departure and with his influence, they became Germany.   Shortly after we had the 100 years war … then after that World War I, World War II.”

Reggi paused and shook his head.  “No, I do not think that the French believe the revolution was so great.  In the end, the intelligence of the mob is only equal to the single least educated person among them all.” 


It was an interesting insight, and I had to reflect deeply upon it.  I had always been taught and thought myself that the last king and queen of France were victims of their own unfortunate circumstance.   From the portraits and from my research, they were the most human of the house of Bourbon.  In the end, they were put to death by the people they had loved, but had misunderstood.  Louis had wanted to champion a democracy, in the end, that democracy ended the lives of his innocent family and thousands more to come.  Suddenly, the notion of a giant guillotine in Paris was even more gruesome and condescending.  

We left Reggi’s house on the somber discussion of revolution, and with a small bouquet of flowers prepared by the man himself.  We also took the opportunity to buy a copy of his father’s comic book.   Reggi had said that the book was only a small part of a larger work he’s tried to get together, and that there has been an interest in the story from film makers.  

He hoped to relate the story, not for profit, but for the good of those who lived it and should share in it as we had.    There are only 1000 copies of the book in print, and it feels sort of like having our own rare volume in the house now.   While the text is in French the meaning and the stories within are still tremendous.

 It was bittersweet to leave that house.   In the end, Reggi became the reason I fell in love with France.  Everything I was to see from in Normandy, I could relate back to his own story.  He was our connection in France to everything that was to follow, and to our own history in America.  We drove away now, bound for Saint James Cemetery, the gateway to our leg through Normandy itself.