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Sunday, October 18, 2015

France, Part 26 - Giverny Part I "A Town of Green Hills."




Look up Giverny in France, and the first thing you will see is Claude Monet, the incredible impressionist painter most well known for the art of his water lily garden.  The garden, Monet's house, and the land surrounding it, are a painting come to life.  It is a town of great hills that rise up into the mountains, and while it is only a short train ride from Paris, one can easily forget that the city is so close to the French Capital.

After the crowded streets of Paris, the rugged landscapes of Normandy, and the hectic life of driving from place to place, we were finally at the end of our journey. 


Giverny Streets
Entering Giverny, one finds narrow roads and small houses, fresh flowers were in bloom all around and the hills were so verdant that I thought the color green was invented there.  Our lodging was a lovely farmhouse hotel called Le Reserve.  It was neither fancy nor auspicious, but comfortable and warm and I preferred it to all the other chateaus and hotels save the one in Ambois. 

Le Reserve
The house was owned by the family for almost four years, and one of the staple features was a giant bear of a dog named “Flobert”.  This giant lump usually had a place right at the kitchen door but might occasionally lumber over to greet visitors.  The outside is his domain, encompassing a pasture for donkeys, apple orchards and a chicken coop.  The whole area is a working farm and inside the rooms are warm and small, possessing a distinct aspect of farm living, rustic and comfortable. 


Inside Le Reserve
Flobert, Chewbacca's cousin.


Our first stop was the muse Impressionists which had a lovely outside garden.  There were groups of schoolchildren, maybe first to third grade who were taking in the plants.  What a wonderful place to educate a child on the importance of art education, by taking them to see the masters.   The paintings here spanned many artists from more realistic, to softer, to blotch paintings that all make that unique impressionist look.  Thankfully, there were no cameras and for once, the guards here seemed vigilant to catch anyone so much as looking at a painting funny.



The paintings here were awe inspiring to me.  I am no artist, but I am a fond lover of impressionists, specifically Renoir and Monet.  Some of the paintings were profound, others simple and every single one was lovely.  We spent a good amount of time taking it all in.


Musee Garden
Claude Monet's house and his gardens sit almost in the center of this still eclectic artist community.  Most everything is in five minutes of each other from his house to the local museum to the cemetery where he and his family are buried.  It certainly is a tiny place, and quite removed from any sense of hustle and bustle the day we visited.    I apologize for a lack of pictures, but photographs inside the house are not allowed, so I have to use stock ones found on the net.
Outside Monet's House

From the outside it’s a walled compound of pink stucco with green shutters just like I’d read about as a kid.  Walking through the main hall, you step into a souvenir shop that once served as Monet’s studio for painting his water lily paintings.  The room is huge, with great glass ceiling that provides a tremendous amount of light. As a man who loved light, Monet prized such a space.

Beyond were the gardens, but before I get to that I should touch on the house.  There is, once again, no photography inside.  However, the walls everywhere are covered almost entirely with Japanese woodblock prints – mostly bought by Monet from traders who had just gained access to Meiji era Japan.  I found this profound, considering Monet gained such an influence studying Japanese masters like Hiroshige and Hokusai.  I recognized some of their most famous works.


Monet's Dining Room, notice the Ukioe prints on the walls
Monet's Kitchen

Monet's Studio

Monet’s private space and studio was covered in paintings and very small by comparison to the bigger space back in the shop but it was still a nice area.  The house itself is two stories, large and long for his rather large family but it is not grandiose.  The true star of the show, however are the two gardens.  


Garden, looking back at the house.