Glimpses of Familiar Japan - Day 6, Nikko and Shrines

Dawn in Chuzenji

I woke up before the break of dawn.   Outside I found Nikko, Japan silent and still.  Only a cool breath of wind greeted me.   The rain was gone, but it had left a smooth sheen like glass over the buildings road and the great torii gate into Chuzenji.   Alone for the first time in a while, I walked by myself around the town of Chuzenji.  

Quiet streets of a small town.  People still slept, waiting the coming day.

This could be any small town, with small stores, shops, and a school perched on the hill.  It was strange to me after being so long amid a mass of humanity in Tokyo to now be so quiet and alone.  It was very nice.  I strolled for what seemed like hours, first through side streets and small stalls before I eventually went to the waterfall once more.   The roaring waters seemed to infuse a certain trancelike state upon me, always calling me back.  It was like that for all of Nikko, as I soon found out.

We took an opportunity once again to check out the falls while waiting for our 8:10 bus at the Chuzenji Onsen Bus Stop.  Our destination was Nishi Sando Station back in Nikko proper.  This was my Dad’s idea and his wisdom proved to be a life-saver.  We worked our way from uphill to down rather than the visa-versa that most people do when coming here.  We also bought a combination ticket at a booth nearby which would allow us access all day to all the shrines in Nikko’s huge complex. 

This is the approach to the shrine.  This magnificent gate is flanked on either side by a bell and drum tower.

Courtyard of the Shrine.

The remains of rain give a certain quality to the light and shadow here.

Look at the gold leaf!

Our first stop was a shrine called Rinnoji which is the tomb of the second Tokugawa shogun.  The whole complex was silent, empty and still save for some workers cleaning it up.   With the early morning mist, the buildings and stones shone like new, even though they are easily several hundred years old.  The buildings are all wood and the woodworking was astoundingly detailed.  Some of the colors were dark and subdued, and these allowed the brighter gold leaf and other colors to stand out.  There was reconstruction which I assume is natural since Nikko is so wet.  We passed by a lot of lanterns and two huge and fearsome guardian statues in a vast gate before winding our way through the complex. 

What was so remarkable about all the things we saw in Nikko’s tombs and shrines were the carvings.  They are so intricate as to be like living things, people, animals real and fantastical.  The colors on them are undimmed by the passage of time.  Standing there, amid the light dusting of rain and with a hint of sun, it’s not hard to imagine you are in an afterlife yourself, adrift in a sea of mist surrounded by the forests of the ancient world.

The pagoda.  You can see all the unique carvings of zodiac around the base.

I enjoyed this image more than the "See no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil carving.

These peacocks were some of the most extraordinary carvings there.

One of the guardians.  I do wonder if this is meant to look like Ieyasu.

Merchants

Sparrows.

After this was the larger and even more impressive Toshogu, the tomb of Tokugawa Ieyasu, first of his line.  Supposedly his son or grandson who is buried in the first tomb we visited was so enamored of his grandfather that he spent 20 years and with hundreds of workers to build Ieyasu’s tomb.  It is certainly fitting for a man who unified Japan in a peaceful structure for the longest period in Japanese history.  There were a lot of people here, and rightly so.

The carvings are even more extraordinary, including elephants carved by people who had to go on description as they had never seen real ones.  There’s a five story pagoda with zodiac animals on it.  On the side of the horse stall are carvings of monkeys including three “see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil monkeys.”  There are also carvings of people and animals on the buildings doing everyday things in such a way that they seem like Hummel statues so small and intricate I have to wonder how the heck they were made.

Nameki Neko carving.

The most famous of these is the Nemeki Neko carving over the door to the stairs leading to Tokugawa Ieyasu’s tomb.  It is said that no bad thing can pass under this door, for the cat would come to life and pounce upon it, for it would not let even a mouse pass.  We had a LONG hike up the steps but the tomb was worth seeing once.  More impressive were carvings of elephants on the space above another building. They are actually quite accurate and surrounded by inlay of goal leaf.  There is a great deal of gold leaf all around these shrines, perhaps enough to make Fort Knox jealous.

Futarasan Shrine entrance.  

Water is everywhere in Nikko

Futarasan Shrine was a small simple structure from the outside.  I was enthralled by it, though, because it had beautiful pantings.  Another highlight is the courtyard which includes a beautiful bronze torii framed by a wooded walkway.   Beyond this we stopped at lower Rinnoji Temple that had many beautiful carved Buddhas and Kannons.  I had never seen so many packed together.  We walked through the adjoining treasure house that included a Japanese garden.   It cost a bit more, but there were scrolls inside with writing so small and intricate you needed a magnifying glass to see it.  The garden was gorgeous and I would highly suggest paying the extra to see both museum and garden.

It was here that I made my second big purchase, but perhaps the far more impressive one than the fan.  On the way down from Futarasan Shrine, there was a little old man standing in the middle of the path.  He was holding a box against his belly, and in one hand was a little whistle shaped like the bird.  Every now and again, he would blow on it and the little bird's beak would flutter and it sounded like actual birdsong.

He actually gave me instruction as I approached and he was clearly pleased that I was talking to him.  It was only 400 yen, but every bit worth ten times that at least to me.  Strange, that something so seemingly simple could bring such joy, but it was intricate in its articulation of the beak.  Even today I have that bird call, but alas I cannot make such sounds as he did. 

 In the picture of Nikko that I keep in my head, I see him standing there in the mists.  I hear the sound of the birds in the trees and the whistle of his song.  I see no one else.   This is the spirit of Nikko for me in this stranger from afar.  A man selling birdsong in the mist.

Shinkyo Bridge.  It is said that the gods themselves created the bridge to span the river.  Looking at it, I think I can see how one could consider it the work of gods. 

A small shrine at the far side of the bridge.

From here our last destination was the beautiful Shinkyo Bridge.  It is said in legend that a priest prayed to the gods for a way to pass the river and the gods made the bridge itself.  Looking at it, I can see why.  It’s gorgeous and spans a deep gorge with water flowing beneath.  You can have a picture taken on the bridge for some money, but we just observed it. 

(From https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ARHTtW_l7uw )

We made our way down through the town of Nikko in search of lunch, past neat shops and antiques.  There were stores full of wooden carvings, food, and one store that immediately caught my eye.  Inside they sell brushed dragons that are made by using single strokes of ink in a sort of meditative process.  I unfortunately did not get to see this process, but I bought one of the dragons and it was a very reasonably priced for such a treasure.  The story of this purchase is an adventure to itself that I will share at another time.

 Statue of the founder of Nikko's Temples

We ended up in the town center and had lunch at a little ramen place next to the bus stop.  It was our first ramen in Japan but it left a distinctly wonderful impression.  The broth was thick and hearty, the noodles juicy and all the additions delicious.  My parents had never tasted real ramen before but were hooked.   Our day ended with another, even longer bus ride up the busy mountainside.  While this was uncomfortable, I was left with a wonderful impression of Nikko on the whole.  

Beautiful dragon fountain at the base of the temples.